How to Fold a Pocket Square
A pocket square is the easiest way to finish a jacket. Here's the clean, foolproof presidential fold step by step, plus the other folds worth knowing.
A pocket square is the cheapest, easiest upgrade a jacket can get: a small piece of fabric that signals you thought about the details. The fold most people should learn first is the presidential (or flat) fold, a clean horizontal line of fabric above the pocket that suits everything from a wedding suit to black tie.
It works best with a crisp cotton or linen square, which holds the straight edge sharply.
The presidential fold takes about twenty seconds once you’ve done it once. The whole idea is simple, as the steps below show: fold the square down to roughly pocket width and depth, then show a clean straight edge.
Other folds worth knowing
- The puff: gather the square loosely in the centre, lift, and tuck the corners into your pocket so a soft dome shows. Relaxed and quick; great with silk.
- The one-point: fold into a triangle with a single point peeking up. A little more formal and deliberate than the puff.
- The two- or three-point: staggered triangular points, dressier and more decorative. Best saved for occasions where a touch of flourish fits.
Getting it right
- Match the fold to the fabric. Crisp cotton and linen hold flat and pointed folds; soft silk falls naturally into a puff.
- Coordinate, don’t match. Echo one colour from your tie or shirt rather than buying a matching set. When in doubt, plain white goes with everything.
- Keep the reveal modest. Half an inch for a flat fold, an inch or so for puffs and points. The pocket square accents the jacket; it shouldn’t run the show.
- Mind the proportion. Trim the show to the jacket. A small, neat reveal always beats a square spilling out of the pocket.
Pair it with a well-tied necktie or a bow tie and the finishing touches are complete.
- 1
Lay it flat
Lay the pocket square face down on a flat surface as a square, smoothing out any creases.
- 2
Fold the sides in
Fold the right third over to the left, then the left edge back over, forming a tall vertical rectangle roughly as wide as your breast pocket.
- 3
Fold the bottom up
Fold the bottom of the rectangle up so the folded square is a little shorter than the depth of your pocket.
- 4
Place it in the pocket
Slip the pocket square into your breast pocket with the clean, straight top edge facing up.
- 5
Adjust the reveal
Adjust it so about a half-inch of the straight edge shows above the pocket, parallel to the top of the pocket.
What's the easiest pocket square fold?
The presidential fold (also called the flat or straight fold), which is the one in the steps above. It shows a clean horizontal line of fabric above the pocket, it suits crisp cotton and linen squares, and it's nearly impossible to get wrong. It's the safest, most versatile fold for business and formal wear alike.
Should a pocket square match the tie?
Coordinate, don't match. An exact match of tie and pocket square looks like a boxed set and reads a little stiff. Instead, pick up one colour from the tie (or the shirt) in the square, or keep it simple with a plain white square, which works with virtually everything and is the classic choice for formal wear.
How much of the pocket square should show?
For a flat presidential fold, about a half-inch of a straight edge above the pocket. For puff and pointed folds, a little more, roughly an inch. The principle is the same: enough to be seen, not so much that it topples out or dominates the jacket.
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